The History of Bekesbourne in Twenty Objects A Village Flower Festival in support of St Peter’s Church Friday 12 September – Sunday 14 September 2014 Entrance and Programme free: donations welcome Please join us for home-made refreshments in the tea tent The inspiration for the list of twenty objects that we present in flowers this weekend is that when Dr Charles Tilstone Beke, the celebrated Victorian explorer of the Nile, first visited Bekesbourne he took home, ‘something animal; something vegetable; and something mineral: viz, a cock’s feather; a hop flower; and a stone from the Little Stour’ from what he believed to be the village of his ancestors. Dr Beke died in 1870 and is buried in St Peter’s churchyard with an imposing memorial which is our twentieth quirky object. It can be found just to the left of the tower door as you leave the church. For this event we have decorated it with Beke’s three objects. You might like to collect from there a copy of our new churchyard trail which describes Beke’s grave and other notable graves in our tranquil churchyard which we invite you to revisit and enjoy at any time. No 1 - Film Reel A plaque on the wall of Howletts Farmhouse on the road between Bekesbourne and Littlebourne records the birth of film director Michael Powell on 30 September 1905. He was later baptised in St Peter’s. Powell had lifelong memories of his childhood in Bekesbourne. In his autobiography he recalls his passion for running water and his love of the English countryside. He explains how this background permeated into his film career often influencing his choice of setting for a production: in particular his decision to make the 1944 film, A Canterbury Tale, most of which was shot in Canterbury and the surrounding villages. The son of a hop farmer, Powell’s childhood memories of Bekesbourne include: riding on the hop wagons, watching the steam trains and picnicking by Well Chapel. He loved to follow the Little Stour downstream to its confluence with the Great Stour. His mother named this place Bedpost Island because four poplars growing there reminder her of a four-poster bed. In 1910 the family moved to Hoath Farm (on the road from Bekesbourne to Canterbury) and in later life Powell visited the Rickards family there and also came here to St Peter’s. No 2 – Hops Hop-growing in Kent has flourished since the 16th century when it was introduced by Flemish brewers. Hops are not easy to grow: they are subject to a number of pests and diseases and the gardens have to be furnished with poles and a complicated system of wires for the bines to climb. Before the use of hydraulic-lifting vehicles, the stringing had to be undertaken by men walking on stilts or with long, hand- held poles. Bekesbourne resident, Chris Stamp, pictured, is the last farm worker in Bekesbourne to have used this skill. He was still doing this in the latter years of the 20th century. In 1932, Mr Ernest ‘Buff’ Baker of Parsonage Farm said, ‘Now there are only 15 acres of hops in the whole of Bekesbourne parish, over 40 acres have been grubbed out during the past year. It remains to be seen whether the last hop will disappear in the near future.’ By the mid-1990s huge swathes of existing hop gardens had been being pulled out, however Amanda Ash and her husband, Mike Barker, had the inspiration to sell the whole hop bines as garlands to decorate pubs and homes. They continue the hop tradition in Bekesbourne growing thousands of bines a year sold all around the country from Essentially Hops at Chalkpit Farm. No 3 – Goldfinger Goldfinger is the seventh novel in Ian Fleming's James Bond series. The book originally bore the title The Richest Man in the World and was written in January and February 1958. The story centres on the investigation by MI6 operative James Bond into the gold smuggling activities of Auric Goldfinger who is also suspected by MI6 of being connected to SMERSH, the Soviet counter-intelligence organisation. At the time that he was writing Goldfinger Ian Fleming and his wife Ann owned The Old Palace in Bekesbourne. They bought the house in 1957 and lived there until August 1960. It was not a particularly happy sojourn: for much of the time Ian was travelling abroad to gain background for his books or staying at their house in Jamaica. Ann, meanwhile, was in Bekesbourne with their young son, Caspar, and suffering from depression. She never really liked the Kent countryside or The Old Palace describing it as ‘a miserable haunted place’ and ‘too close to the railway’. Nor did she enjoy entertaining, or being entertained by her Bekesbourne neighbours, and she was glad when the Flemings moved away, comparing their last days in The Old Palace to the dismal final act of Chekov’s play ‘The Cherry Orchard’. No 4 - Book of Common Prayer When Henry VIII died and Edward VI attained the throne in 1547, the stage was set for some significant changes in the religious life of the country. The bishops met and produced the first Book of Common Prayer in 1549. It is generally assumed that this book is largely the work of Archbishop Thomas Cranmer although this cannot be definitively determined.Cranmer became Archbishop of Canterbury in 1533. He had five palaces, one of which was at Bekesbourne. The one at Ford (between Canterbury and Reculver) is said to have been his favourite but nonetheless he appears to have been often at the palace in Bekesbourne after 1542. Cranmer was Archbishop until 1553 and he could therefore have been working on the Book of Common Prayer during the times he spent in Bekesbourne. We like to think that the tranquillity of his palace here gave him the opportunity to work on the prayer book in quietude. Cranmer opened his palace at Bekesbourne to wounded soldiers landed at Dover during the Wars with France. He supplied medical aid and accommodation as well as funds for journeys home. This is thought to be the first example of a military hospital in England. He also kept house for the poor and supported the Protestant refugees who landed in Kent from France in great numbers at this time. Despite this philanthropy Cranmer’s life did not end happily: when the Catholic queen Mary came to the throne in 1553 he fell out of favour. He was found guilty of treason on November 13, that year and deprived of the see. By then he was already imprisoned in the Tower of London and on 21 March 1556 he was executed by burning at the stake in Oxford. No 5 – Railway Arch The railway arch at the centre of Bekesbourne is perhaps the village’s most iconic feature. It carries the Dover to Canterbury railway high across the valley and has been there since circa 1860. The landscape of the arch surrounded by village houses recalls the cover of Enid Blyton’s first Noddy book which was published in 1949. The creator of the cover and illustrator of the Noddy books was, curiously, a Dutch illustrator by the name of Eelco Martinus ten Harmsen van der Beek (more commonly just Beek). The cover of the first edition of Noddy in Toyland shows Noddy and his friend, Big Ears, standing in front of a tall railway arch built from the wooden bricks with which children of the era played. A later edition of 2010, also illustrated by Beek’s drawings, shows a more elaborate brick construction with side arches and the word ‘station’ spelled out in letter bricks. As a child, Beek (who was born in 1897) sold hand-drawn postcards on thestreets of Amsterdam. Beek attended the State Academy for Fine Arts in Amsterdam from 1916 to 1918 and subsequently began a career as a commercial artist and illustrator. He was already well known in the Netherlands when he approached Blyton’s publishers in England for work and was commissioned for the Noddy books. He died in 1953. It is interesting to speculate as to whether Beek ever visited Bekesbourne where he might have been inspired by the iconic railway arch - such high arches must be rare on the flat lands of the Netherlands. No 6 – 1st Bekesbourne Brownie Pennant/Flag The Brownie movement is celebrating its centenary this year. The 1st Bekesbourne Brownie pack has been flourishing in Bekesbourne since it was started, we believe, in the 1960s by Mrs Sandall who was then headmistress of Bekesbourne School. Despite a gap after Mrs Sandall gave it up, the pack has flourished under its subsequent ‘Brown Owls’ including: Phil Denne with Tawny Owl, Jill Gillanders; Lucy Hawkes; Claire Chalmers; and, now, Ruth Baker. The photograph shows the Brownies circa 1980 with a collage of the village for which they won the ‘Jessica’ Cup donated by Mrs Montgomery (centre back) to commemorate the birth of her first granddaughter. The Brownie to the left of the collage is holding the original pennant which was later replaced by the flag. The Brownies have created their own display for this flower festival and they will be entertaining us with hand-bell ringing over the weekend. No 7 - Pie Funnel We are probably all familiar with the nursery rhyme ‘Sing a song of sixpence’ and the ‘four and twenty blackbirds’ which were ‘baked in a pie’, but perhaps less well known is that the inventor of the pie funnel, (which since the 1940s has often been moulded as an open-mouthed blackbird) was Stephen Hales who was born at Howletts and grew up in Bekesbourne. A pie funnel, or pie chimney, is a hollow ceramic device used for supporting and venting a fruit or meat pie during cooking. The pie funnel was one of Stephen Hales’ lesser inventions. He took a degree in Theology at Cambridge and was a churchman for the rest of his life but he had a keen interest in scientific matters. His observations of the circulation of blood in animals helped him to understand and explain the workings of the human heart muscle thereby paving the way for modern blood-pressure readings. He developed ventilators to improve air quality in overcrowded premises which were used widely in ships, prisons, mines, hospitals and workhouses. A Hales ventilator was installed in the House of Commons. Stephen Hales was also a campaigner for the abolition of hard liquor and was instrumental in promoting an Act of Parliament which imposed a duty of 20s on a gallon of spirituous liquor and required all retailers to have an annual licence. No 8 - The Winter Diary of a Country Rat The country rat is a character in two books by author, illustrator and puppeteer, Peter Firmin. Peter is the founder of an animated film company with the late Oliver Postgate and together they created a number of popular children's TV programmes: The Saga of Noggin the Nog; Ivor the Engine; The Clangers; Bagpuss; and Pogles' Wood. Most of the animation was done in a barn at Peter’s home in Blean. Peter also co-created, with Ivan Owen, the puppet Basil Brush. He is believed to have made the first puppet using a real fox tail. Peter is married to Joan, who is said to have knitted the Clangers from vibrant pink wool. In 1981 Peter wrote and illustrated A Winter Diary of a Country Rat about a rat called Branwell who helped a wolf named Lukin to escape from Howletts Wild Animal Park. In the book the duo travel to Canterbury through the villages of Bekesbourne and Patrixbourne having adventures on the way. Peter’s delightful text and illustrations captured many iconic features of the landscape. Peter visited Bekesbourne in April 2000 for the parish Millennium celebrations when he kindly gave a talk about his work. The talk was oversubscribed by the villagers who had to cram into the village hall amongst the extensive Millennium photographic exhibition displays. The next day we were delighted to welcome Peter back again, this time with his wife, Joan, whom he brought to view the exhibition. No 9 - Bird Brooch Within the boundaries of the parish of Bekesbourne, on land well above the valley floor, three Anglo- Saxon burial sites have been discovered: one at Howletts; one at Cowslip Wood (near Bekesbourne Aerodrome); and one on the Bramling Road – see map. These cemeteries provide proof that the Nailbourne valley, and Bekesbourne in particular, was one of the earliest sites for Anglo-Saxon settlement in East Kent. The Howletts and Cowslip Wood sites have been dated to the 5th-6th century AD. Although there is no trace of where the associated settlements were, the grave goods excavated from these sites help to indicate how the Bekesbourne Anglo-Saxons might have lived and worked. For instance, it can be deduced that their primitive houses had locks because keys have been uncovered. Spears, swords, axe heads, bowls and brooches are common finds. Brooches were used by Anglo-Saxon women as clasps joining strips of woven cloth, often at the shoulders. Brooches were both functional and decorative. The bird brooch featured here shows Frankish influence. It is made of bronze with a garnet eye and was found at Cowslip Wood during an excavation by Frank Jenkins which took place between 1955 and 1958. The brooch and other finds from the cemeteries can be viewed at The Beaney House of Art and Knowledge in Canterbury. No 10 - Airman’s Helmet and Goggles This display commemorates the important role that Bekesbourne Aerodrome played in the First World War and as our flower festival is staged 100 years since the start of that war we have singled it out as our main exhibit. We are fortunate to have sponsorship from the Hill family in memory of James ‘Alec’ Hill, who grew up on the Aerodrome and was a keen student of Bekesbourne history, obtaining as a scholar in later life first a BA and then an MA in History from the University of Kent. Alec died in 2011 and is buried in Bekesbourne churchyard where he and his wife Kathleen (nee Goodwin), another child-time resident of the village, often visited to maintain the graves. Indeed, Kathleen still does so. Before the civil boundaries of the parishes were altered in 1957 the aerodrome at the top of Chalkpit Hill (next to the railway line on the way to Adisham out of Bekesbourne) was included in the parish of Ickham. However, it appears to have always been known as Bekesbourne Aerodrome (or sometimes Garrington Aerodrome or Canterbury Aerodrome at Bekesbourne). The airfield was one of a cluster in Kent from which fighter aircraft took off to combat German Zeppelins and Gotha bombers. (There were others at Detling, Dover, Eastchurch, Harrietsham, Manston and Throwley.) The first reported landing at Bekesbourne was in 1912 by Lieutenant Spencer-Grey of the Royal Naval Air Service. He was flying to the naval station at Eastchurch on the Isle of Sheppey when engine trouble forced a landing on a field and necessitated an overnight stay for repairs. In 1913 a Bleriot monoplane on route for Dover from Hendon landed nearby, and on March 15, the same year, a Cuadron biplane being delivered to Eastchurch was forced down by a faulty engine. A short while after the First World War began in 1914 the same gently-sloping field at Bekesbourne was designated as one of a number of Emergency Landing Grounds within 40 miles of the Royal Navy Air Station at Manston. However, it wasn’t until the late summer of 1916 that No. 50 Home Defence Squadron began to fly reconnaissance flights from Bekesbourne. No. 50 Squadron was stationed at Dover at the time and had been formed in May 1916 under the command of Major Malcolm Christie. At least one flight of No. 50 Squadron flew from Bekesbourne for the remainder of the war except for a brief spell in June/July 1917 when two flights of No. 56 Squadron were posted to the Aerodrome from France and No. 50 Squadron decamped to Throwley. The Dover to London railway line which runs adjacent to the Aerodrome was used by the German Gotha bombers as a navigation aid and several bombs were dropped by the Germans near to the aerodrome and, presumably, were intended for it. By late 1917 all three flights ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C’ of No. 50 Squadron were based at Bekesbourne - each flight consisting of: between four and six officers; fourteen to sixteen other ranks; twelve WAAFs together with mechanics, drivers and technicians. In 1918 the intensity of the German attacks reduced and there were greater opportunities for relaxation and the entertainment of visitors who conveniently ‘force-landed’ at Bekesbourne. Ironically, with the lessening of conflict came the continued expansion of the Aerodrome. After the armistice Major A T ‘Ginger’ Harris (later ‘Bomber’ Harris of Second World War fame) took command of the Squadron. He arrived at Bekesbourne to find the men unhappy about the demobilisation process and he had the depressing task of disbanding the Squadron. On 18 June 1919 the aerodrome was declared surplus to Royal Airforce requirements. It continued between the wars as a private Flying Club and was used again briefly in warfare in 1940 before being closed permanently. No 11 - Penny Red The Penny Black is widely believed to have been the world's first adhesive postage stamp used in a public postal system. The idea of a stamp to indicate pre-payment of postage was part of Sir Rowland Hill's 1837 proposal to reform the British postal system: it was usual until then for the recipient to pay postage on delivery.e stamp was printed in black ink. However, it soon became obvious that black was a not a good colour as this made cancellation marks hard to read, so the stamps were printed in brick-red from 1841. By the time Bekesbourne’s first sub-post office opened in April 1854 the Penny Red was in use. The Ordnance Survey map for 1873 shows Bekesbourne post office in The Street, probably at Godden House. However, this office was closed in 1880 and moved to the railway station where a Post & Telegraph Office opened in February 1881. Circa 1930 the post office moved to a single-storey, weather-boarded building beside the wall-box in School Lane and a new sub-postmaster, Edwin Crouch, took charge there until 1960 when the post office was closed. The Victorian post-box remains, with a large chip on one side of the rain-shield for the letter opening where presumably it was once hit by a passing vehicle. The box was made by Smith and Hawkes Ltd of Birmingham. It is a No. 2 design of which only 250 remain in use. No 12 - Indian Head Dress Of all our objects this is perhaps the most quirky. It is a reminder of William ‘Bill’ Malcolm Hazlett star of cowboy movies in the 1930s and 1940s who lived for a while on Bekesbourne Aerodrome. He was a Blackfoot Indian born in Montana on 11 April 1874 and a graduate from Carlisle Indian Industrial School in Pennsylvania. Founded in 1879, Carlisle was the first federally-funded, off-reservation Indian boarding school. It was founded on the principle that Native Americans were the equals of European-Americans, and that Native American children immersed in mainstream Euro-American culture would learn skills to advance in society. In this period, many Anglo-Americans mistakenly believed that Native Americans were a vanishing race whose only hope for survival was rapid cultural transformation. Bill went by the name Chief Eagle Elk or sometimes Chief Many Treaties. He starred in many movies including The Flaming Frontiers, Guilty Trails, Outlaw Express, and The Law Rides Again. When in Bekesbourne he and his partner, Wonetta Redfeather, were befriended by Mr and Mrs George Weller, their neighbours at Oakdene Farm on Aerodrome Road. At Christmas 1927, Chief Eagle Elk visited Croydon and sent his friends in Bekesbourne a souvenir postcard of Father Christmas and an Indian brave on a horse-drawn carriage ‘Off to meet Eagle Elk’. Bill died in Los Angeles in 1948. No 13 - Cinque Ports Shield Bekesbourne is a member of the Cinque Ports Confederation because of its medieval responsibility to supply a ship for the king’s use. The Confederation was formed shortly before the Norman conquest as an arrangement for a supply of ships to guard the southern coastline. There were five ports initially and subsequently each added associate towns and villages. Bekesbourne became a ‘limb’ of the port of Hastings after Godwin of Hastings was appointed in the late-11th century to keep and run a ship for the king. Godwin was given the manor of Bekesbourne in compensation for his expenses and he subsequently moved here. This meant that Bekesbourne was an integral part of the Borough of Hastings, paid taxes only to Hastings and came under the jurisdiction of the Court of Law there. The influence of the Cinque Ports gradually weakened over the centuries and Bekesbourne’s link with Hastings came to an end in the 19th century. The shield of the Hastings port of the Cinque Ports (and therefore of Bekesbourne) is coloured red on the left and blue on the right; three gold-coloured half-lions walk with face turned towards the viewer (passant gardant in pale), and are joined to three half-ships also coloured gold. No 14 – Bells It was in 1890 that the six bells of St Peter’s Church were first heard ringing out over the village. They have continued to be rung regularly since then and underwent a full restoration in 2005. Before 1884, there were only two bells, of unknown age. St Peter’s had fallen into disrepair in the 19th century. However, the tower was rebuilt in 1841 and further restoration in 1884 included the gift of four new bells from the Gipps family, who owned Howletts from about 1820 to 1910. Four years later, two more bells were added, with the new treble hung above the other new bell. The bells are each inscribed MEARS & STAINBANK, WHITECHAPEL FOUNDRY, LONDON, 1890 or 1884. One of the bells is dedicated specifically to Jane Gipps, the Younger. She is also commemorated by this window which contains stained -glass bell-motifs in the tracery above a main picture of Christ in the house of Martha and Mary, reflecting, perhaps, Jane’s spinsterhood. In the 1950s Bekesbourne had a hand-bell ringing team which went from house to house at Christmas ringing carols to raise funds for charity. In the photo left to right are: Jack Payne; Syd Clayson; Harry Goodwin; Vic Rogers; and Albert Patterson. Jack is holding the bells normally rung by David Friend who was ill on the night and could not be present. No 15 - Railway Ticket The Canterbury to Dover section of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway opened on July 22, 1861. Bekesbourne was lucky to have a station: when the sites of the stations were debated, the directors decided that Bekesbourne did not merit one. Later it was agreed that a goods-only station would be built provided that the land was given free together with £500 to cover costs. By November 1859, after representations by Lord Sondes, George Gipps and others, the Executive Committee had decided that Bekesbourne would have a proper station after all. Coal and farm produce were the staples of the goods traffic from Bekesbourne. In 1880 Francis Sherrard is mentioned in his mother’s will as a coal merchant of Bekesbourne and his wagons appear in photographs taken around the turn of the 19th century. Until at least 1910 there was no footbridge at Bekesbourne station and passengers crossed the tracks on the level using steps cut out of the platform. This dangerous practice inevitably led to accidents and in January 1891, the Pall Mall Gazette carried a report of a porter, Thomas Kiy, who came to the rescue of a young female passenger who was attempting to cross the line while a train was leaving the station. The early trains were steam-hauled. Later, the trains changed to diesel and then line was electrified in 1959 and the platforms were extended. Soon after the electrification Bekesbourne became subject to the many cuts in rail services which occurred in the 1960s. Goods traffic ceased on 5 June 1961 and the signal box closed on 18 October 1964. Staffing at the station ceased on 14 April 1969. No 16 - Oyster Shell Nicola Fry, who has lived and gardened at The Old Palace since 1983, often finds oyster shells in her garden. Archaeologists tell her that they could be evidence of when there was a Romano-British settlement on the site around the end of the first century AD. Apparently oysters were the ‘fast food’ of the day. No evidence has ever been found of Romans elsewhere in Bekesbourne and indeed they appear to have gone from the Old Palace site fairly rapidly suggesting that the Nailbourne valley floor was either subject to flooding or constantly marshy for about one thousand years after Roman times. Reverend Francis Vine thought otherwise. He was the incumbent at St Mary’s, Patrixbourne, when he researched his personal theory on the Roman invasions which was published under the title Caesar in Kent in 1886. Vine thought that the Nailbourne valley was the site of some of Caesar’s battles with the ancient Britons and he interpreted the various river terraces on the valley slopes as the remains of fortified earthworks. He suggested that Caesar landed at Deal for his second invasion and then marched cross- country arriving at the ‘remarkably elevated situation’ of Bekesbourne mill where Caesar ‘decried the British forces lining the crest of the hill from Garrington to the part of Barham Downs opposite Bridge and Bishopsbourne’. Vine’s supposed earthworks include the hummock which commences in the Cobham Court land leading up to the church and continues into the adjacent horse-field. It is an appealing theory, and Vine builds a good case for his speculations. However, in spite of his book running to two editions, his theory does not correspond with the established views on Caesar’s route through Kent. No 17 - Pebble from the Little Stour The rivulet, known as the Nailbourne, which flows through the centre of Bekesbourne to join the Little Stour at Garrington is a winter bourne, an intermittent stream which flows only when the groundwater levels are high enough. Legend suggests that the stream will flow every seven years, but in reality flow depends on winter rainfall to replenish the chalk aquifers and thereby the source springs. The river wasn’t always intermittent and it wasn’t always called the Nailbourne. When our Anglo-Saxon ancestors lived in the valley it was almost certainly a permanent watercourse as far as the Bourne Park springs and it would have been an important source of water and food such as fish and aquatic greenery. Until at least 1899 the watercourse was mapped as the Little Stour. It seems to have acquired the name Nailbourne in the 20th century, corresponding to the time when the chalk aquifer began to be tapped to provide a supply of water for Margate and district. The pumping station on the Wingham Road was commissioned in 1905. The water is drawn through adits (long tunnels through the chalk) which extend radially from the pumping centre: one reaches northwards almost to Bramling. Although mostly benign or dry, the Nailbourne in full spate is an impressive sight and can reach flow rates of 4.5 cubic metres/second. It will overspill its banks on such occasions, creating large lakes on the floodplain meadows. The last such occasion was in the spring of this year. Fortunately no village houses flooded. No 18 – Lucky Horseshoe Horses have long been associated with Bekesbourne. The stable yard at the top of Chalkpit Hill is a small, friendly, riding and livery establishment. The stables work closely with the Medieval Siege Society and supply horses for their displays including jousting. The meadows at the centre of the village have been home to numerous horses and ponies over the years and many of the young folk of the village and wider district have learned horse-care and riding skills here. Miniature horses have also long been associated with the village: at the turn of the 19th century Henry Minter Baker kept them at Cobham Court and a hundred or so years later two elderly miniature Shetlands were given a home in the garden of The Old Palace. In August 1598 Lord Brooke held his inauguration as Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports at Cobham Court and according to the chronicler there were said to be between 6,000 and 10,000 horses present. The horseshoe is generally regarded as a talisman of good luck. Opinions differ as to how a shoe should be mounted: some say upwards so that it can catch any good luck from the ether; others say downwards so that it can release its luck to the people around. No 19 - The Colour Purple For many centuries, purple was the colour of royalty, popes, bishops, the high, mighty, and rich because purple pigments were scarce and therefore highly prized. All changed in 1856 when an 18-year-old Englishman, William Perkin, serendipitously prepared a dye that became known variously as Perkin's mauve or aniline purple. His chance discovery using extracts from coal tar gave birth to the synthetic dyes industry. Purple is the colour adopted by the church for vestments and hangings in the seasons of Advent and Lent. The colour is also associated with Bekesbourne through its connection with the Archbishops and also for the display of purple crocuses which has appeared each spring outside Cobham Court in School Lane for over forty years thanks to inspirational planting by Mrs Lois Whigham. And in late summer each year the flower fields of Essentially Hops are filled with larkspur in purple, pink and white. No 20 – Beke’s Broken Column – see title page © Jill Thomas September 2014